TÊTE-À-TÊTE

Chinu Kala, founder, Rubans Accessories

"I was always inclined towards fashion, but for most of my life, I did not have the means to afford anything fashionable. However, I had the flair and attitude, which I feel plays an important role in shaping us up”, said Chinu Kala, Founder of Fonte Fashions India Pvt Ltd (RUBANS) or popularly known as Rubans Accessories. Chinu is the fashionista that most would aspire to be, and she attributes her success somewhat to her challenging early stages.

With India’s online fashion jewellery market potential slated at 23% CAGR (Compound annual growth rate) in the next five years, Chinu shares her journey, the market trends, and the future of an upcoming and integral sector within the fashion industry.

Taming of a Teenager

After a heated argument, when Chinu left home, the only thing she was clear about was not going back home. She hails from Mumbai, and once she abandoned home, she lived on the streets and railway platform in Mumbai, doing odd jobs before moving to Surat. She worked as a waitress, a telemarketing executive, and a salesgirl.

As a school dropout, her livelihood means were limited. “My first job was that of a door-to-door salesgirl selling coasters and knives, and I earned 20 rupees a day. My aim then was to make enough money for a day’s meal,” said Chinu. But the experience was a life changer. “On a hot and sunny day, when people slammed their doors on your face, it really hurt. But with every door slammed on me, it made me tougher from inside and enhanced my resolve to become successful, stronger and built my never give-up attitude,” she said. But her persistence also gave rise to an inner restlessness which paved her path for a higher calling.

Keen Self-Learner

She rested confidence on her inner flair and became a self-learner, studying almost everything in fashion-related aspects. “Therefore, when I came to creating a product, the natural choice for me was fashion jewellery,” she said.

Despite lacking formal education, Chinu’s inquisitiveness about fashion and jewellery as a product intrigued her. Her natural flair for understanding jewellery stood her in good stead in her later years. “I never had an issue getting the best designs made in consultation with my in-house designers,” she said.

Chinu agrees that it was not a cakewalk for someone without formal training or financial backups in her chosen field. But, her strong desire to aspire and excel in becoming a dominant player in the market pushed her dream. Each business, according to Chinu has its phases of ups and downs, but it’s up to the team and the leader to adapt and innovate for long-term sustenance.

She started a business and built a successful brand around it by leveraging the existing business environment and technological advantages. “It, however, requires the right attitude, a hunger to succeed, and an eye for opportunity. I’m glad to see many women leaders making their mark out there,” said Chinu.

She is an eager learner who, despite her success, continues to upgrade herself. “I like reading and listening to Podcasts, but those too are related to entrepreneurship or start-ups,” she said.

""On a hot and sunny day, when people slammed their doors on your face, it really hurt. But with every door slammed on me, it made me tougher from inside and enhanced my resolve to become successful, stronger and built my never give-up attitude

Collections - Rubans Accessories

The Creative Trigger

Chinu’s world got a boost when she participated and was one of the finalists in the Gladrags Mrs. India in 2007, which introduced her to the glitz of the fashion and jewellery sector. “The one month I spent at the boot camp gave me a lot of exposure. Previously I never had the money to spend on any luxuries, because from my childhood, I had always been earning to survive,” said Chinu. She was thrown into a new world with participants wearing amazing outfits and perfect makeup. It was then that she realised that, “It was only the right accessory that completed their (participant’s) looks, and this observation stayed with me for many years,” said Chinu.

“I saw how a piece of jewellery changed the overall look and persona of a person and that the best dressed also looked incomplete without a pair of accessories,” she said. After the Gladrags’s experience, she picked up a few modeling assignments but soon realised that entrepreneurship was her calling and ventured into corporate merchandising in 2008. Corporate Merchandising connected her to the entire brand wagon of well-known products and furthered her experience in branding and strategy.

Branding the Trigger

While in her corporate merchandising entrepreneurial journey, she experienced an inclination towards branding and marketing. Her association with brand managers kindled new avenues in understanding the ‘passion’ that any brand can evoke. She learned that sales numbers were a temporary parameter and that a brand’s worth is eternal. “I realised that the only way to build something substantial was by building a brand that would go beyond sales and numbers,” said Chinu.

She focused on corporate merchandising from 2008 to 2014 and then embarked on a journey to create her own fashion jewellery line. “I used to get excited thinking about building my brand and legacy. My love for jewellery and my entrepreneurial streak triggered me to start Rubans Accessories,” said Chinu.

Blending Business Artistically

Chinu strongly believes in blending artistry with her customer’s preferences, and in no way is she willing to compromise on artistic nuances. “We understand our customers well and keep them updated on the latest trends,” she said. Chinu acknowledged the craftsmanship of her artisans. Reuban’s 2000+ designs are sourced from artisans countrywide. “We update a fresh catalogue of collections every 15 days, ensuring even our most regular customers have that option to buy from the new launches, and thus we maintain brand relevance, “ she said.

With a strong catalogue balance of western and ethnic jewellery designs, Chinu is also actively involved in the post-production stages. “I wear and check every piece that becomes a part of our collection. If I don’t feel good about wearing a piece of jewellery, it is not sent to our customers,” she said. And this dedication is what she relies on for her clientele.

"Tier 2 and Tier 3 cities are expected to be the growth engines for the next few years; with the internet accessibility enhancing the focus of all major e-commerce players, the customer base in these cities will swell up too."

Mirroring Women

A winner of the 2016 - Star Retailers award, Chinu Kala has achieved the 2021 and 2022 Highest GMV (gross merchandise value) accolades. As a women entrepreneur, she has made sure to recruit more women as part of her business and advised and consulted aspiring women entrepreneurs. “From the day I began my business, I have benchmarked at least 70 per cent of women in my workforce in the past eight years and continue to maintain the same”, said Chinu.

She firmly believes that women need to have greater participation in nation-building. “Statistically, in urban cities, only 8-10 per cent of women work whereas the data suggests 60 per cent of working women even in neighbouring countries like Nepal and Bangladesh. I feel there are far more opportunities for women today, and it is for us to decide our future because if we are determined in our resolve, do’s and don’ts won’t matter”, she said.

Work-Life Balance

Chinu draws inspiration from within herself, and it has only been a recent trait that she has found time to connect with other people. “Otherwise, it’s been only me and my husband, Amit Kala, who have built the business and supported each other from scratch, and in tough times both morally and emotionally,” she said. The go-getter in Chinu, however, picks up a few pointers from successful 1st generation entrepreneurs who have built their businesses from scratch.

Her biggest stress buster is playing with her daughter Aarnah or cooking to calm her nerves; it recharges and gives her immense happiness. “I enjoy planning for future expansions and new product development. I also like listening to music and occasionally watching movies”, she said.

Chinu’s Eye view on the Fashion Jewellery Market

Malls to e-commerce

Chinu shared the nuances of being in an industry that has transitioned from an unorganised market to gradually building brands around them. When the retail business was primarily through high streets and malls, it meant long waiting periods and hefty deposits for entrepreneurs to occupy prime space for their retail units.

Chinu, too, battled financial crunches and had to initially convince a mall manager to give her a month to arrange for the initial deposit, which she finally did; and there has been no looking back since then. Chinu’s journey has also witnessed the changes in the fashion jewellery sector as she throws some light on the various trajectories.

Q&A

Industry Vibes

Corporate Citizen: Is jewellery making considered an MSME sector?

Chinu Kala: The jewellery sector by far is unorganised, but with more and more players entering the domain, it is getting recognised as an MSME sector. The sector’s future looks bright as the demand for branded jewellery is rapidly increasing each year.

CC: Who were the leading players when you pursued this business?

One of the main reasons I entered the business was that there were no established brands in the segment, and I sensed a big opportunity

CC: How big is the industry now, and who are your main competitors?

Currently, the TAM (total addressable market) for the fashion jewellery industry is estimated at a revenue potential of around Rs 28000 Cr with an expected growth of Rs 48000 Cr by 2027. Branded jewellery comprises 10-12 per cent of the market, while unorganised players make up the rest. Our competition is with the 90 per cent unorganised market and not merely with the other branded players, and I see a massive pie for us to capture.

CC: What kind of market transitions have you seen in the jewellery designing and manufacturing sector?

Since we are part of the fashion industry, trends keep changing, but from the time I ventured into the business, typically, brands would launch around 4 to 6 collections in a year. We have managed to launch 12-18 collections annually. Keeping pace with the changing needs and quality is the key to success.

CC: What is the uptake in Tier 2 and Tier 3 cities, especially with e-commerce accessibility and discounts?

Tier 2 and Tier 3 cities are expected to be the growth engines for the next few years. With internet accessibility enhancing the focus of all major e-commerce players, the customer base in these cities will swell up too. The reason is that people in these locations have a good percapita income but fewer avenues to spend. So, once they get access to the best brands, which have until now been concentrated in prime metros, we can expect higher numbers from these cities in due course.

CC: Do you have overseas buyers?

We are not selling B2B (business to business) in the international market, but we do sell in many countries via our D2C (direct to consumer) channel. Our international market comprises the vast Indian diaspora who are more interested in Indian jewellery but prefer small and minimalistic pieces for daily wear.

CC: What is the future trend for India’s fashion jewellery and accessories segment?

The Indian fashion jewellery market has only begun experiencing the power of ‘brand’ worth. Even a few years ago, one did not have a well-defined brand in the segment. The market is snowballing with Indian customers exposed to world fashion and trends. The market is expected to grow by a CAGR of 10 per cent, whereas the growth expectations of the online market is a whopping CAGR of 23 per cent in the next five years, indicating a bright future.

"I suggest that every aspirant into the fashion world, not merely the costume jewellery segment, be thoroughly prepared before jumping into the business. Do your homework which will save you precious time and money."

Consumer Vibes

CC: Who are your customers?

Our larger customer group is in the age group of 16 to 45 years. Our customer is the female who takes that extra minute to admire herself in the mirror before heading out; someone who loves to dress up for herself and is also not afraid to flaunt it.

CC: Can you break down your offerings into traditional or western?

CC: Can jewellery be made genderless?

Yes, jewellery can be made gender-free, and there are a few designs that both men and women wear. However, the trend for such styles is nascent and limited to bigger cities and Metros. So as of now, the percentage is minuscule.

Post-Pandemic Drive

CC: Has your customer base improved post the pandemic?

The second wave has affected all businesses worldwide, and the jewellery business also witnessed a few trends. We saw that demand for heavy jewellery went down, but the demand for daily wear improved, and minimalistic pieces picked up very well. In fashion jewellery, we saw a surge in minimalistic designs and daily wear pieces, and our numbers grew substantially during this period.

CC: What are your plans for Rubans?

Our journey has just begun, and we aspire to make Rubans a household brand. I dream that every woman in India will own a piece of Rubans in her collection. With time, we hope to expand our operations beyond India and try to replicate the same success in other countries. While the current focus is on fashion jewellery, we have been exploring and working on other fashion-related categories and will reveal the same in due course.

Fashion Industry Wannabes

CC: What is your advice for youngsters who dream of entering the fashion world?

suggest that every aspirant into the fashion world, not merely the fashion jewellery segment, be thoroughly prepared before jumping into the business. Do your homework which will save you precious time and money. The business is demanding; your determination and consistency matter the most. If you do not taste success initially, do not give up, you have to give at least 1000 days to anything that you start before taking a call.

CC: Name factors that have defined your success?

It was my hunger to succeed, an eye for seeing opportunities, hard work, and self-belief.