Serenity of the Darjeeling hills

Achin Bhattacharyya, a Chattered Accountant who earlier worked with Deloitte as Director and is now the CEO of Notebook, speaks about his favorite holiday destination

Your favorite holiday destination?

My favorite holiday destination is Glenburn valley, which is an hour’s drive from Darjeeling town. Situated in the Lesser Himalayas, it was the favored summer retreat of the colonial settlers. I love taking an extended weekend (usually around four days) and spend some time in the hills. There is nothing more calming than spending hours staring at the Kanchenjunga with a cup of first flush Darjeeling tea in hand. The idyllic surrounding, the serenity of the hills and the magnanimous appeal of nature keep me going back to Darjeeling.

When did you visit last?

I last visited the same about a year back and I love going back every alternate year.

What are the highlights of Glenburn?

The crown jewel of the Glenburn valley is the Glenburn tea estate, which boasts of 1600 acres of the private estate dating back to 1859 and offers great variation in temperature within the estate itself as the estate stretches from an altitude of 800 ft. near the river, up to 3000 ft. at The Burra Bungalow. It has two bungalows for guests, each comprising of four private suites and the common areas - gardens, verandahs and terraces accessible to all guests. Darjeeling town (alt. 6000 ft.) is an hour away and Kalimpong (alt. 5500 ft.) is almost two hours away.

You can witness tea production first hand, which runs from the beginning of spring at end of February (First Flush), all the way through the summer (Second Flush) and the monsoon season (Rain Teas), through to the end of November (Autumn Flush). There is a lodge and campsite beside the river, ideal for an overnight trip where you can spend your day fishing or by taking a dip in the river or simply watching the spectacular view of the forest. Across the river, you can see the state of Sikkim. You could also catch a glimpse of birds like Cormorants, wild geese and Hornbills that inhabit the area.

At night you can choose to have a beautiful candle-lit dinner down by the river. Barbecues and bonfires are also popular options. Post-dinner, you may retire for the night in the wooden log-cabin, accompanied by the soothing sounds of the Rangeet River. There are various other activities like hiking, fishing, relaxing massage and beauty treatments, all within the estate itself.

A day trip to nearby Darjeeling town should definitely be on your to-do list. It should start with the famous breakfast at Keventers. Don’t forget to try the delicious Cheese Toast when you’re eating here. You could even follow this up with the iconic toy-train ride, which starts at Ghoom and you could get down at Kurseong, and a visit to the Bhutanese market and Chowrasta (popularly referred to as the “Mall” by tourists). The Teesta river offers one of the most exhilarating river rafting experiences in India. Head over there, and find out first-hand why it’s an absolute favorite with rafting enthusiasts.

A day trip to Kalimpong is also a great idea. The town itself is situated on a ridge between two hills-Deolo and Durpin Dara-towering over the Teesta. Compared to Darjeeling, it is quieter and more peaceful, and the crowd has more of local residents than tourists. The local bazaar is an experience-shopper’s paradise as you get to interact with ethnic communities in colorful traditional costume, selling produce from their local farms.

Please ensure that you take your time out for famous Kalimpong cheese and Kalimpong lollipops.

The Glenburn experience is a study in how simplicity and elegance go hand in hand. Places like these teach us to be at peace with ourselves, because happiness in this day and age is an elusive concept

Which restaurants do you like to visit over there?

Options in the Glenburn valley are very limited and you need to have all your meals in the Glenburn tea estate itself. There, you are encouraged to have your meals in the huge dining room in the Tea Planters’ Bungalow, which was a bomb shelter during the World War II, built as a refuge from Japanese bombing. The food is incredibly tasty, especially the local hill delicacies like Momos and Thukpa.

When you are out on a day trip to Darjeeling town, you can visit places like Kunga, Tom & Jerry’s and others for local cuisine. Sonam’s Kitchen and Nathmull Tea Bar are also quite good. In Kalimpong, ZaKhang, Tiffany and Cafe Refuel would be my top three choices.

Tips you can give to fellow travelers for that place?

This is a place where you can visit throughout the year. The valley is situated at a moderate altitude of 3000 ft. and thus, temperatures rarely drops below seven degrees unlike Darjeeling and most parts of Sikkim, which are bitterly cold during the winters.

Monsoons are my favorite, as the valley in that season is a very special experience. The mist from the hills drops right into the valleys around the bungalow and you feel like you are on top of the world, floating upon the clouds. The rain brings a freshness to the countryside, and the lush green color during the rains is not seen during the rest of the year. Often, it will rain all night and you can wake up to a crystal clear morning, as if the entire region has been washed clean and the mountains are sparkling, with the clear blue sky in the background.

The Water Lily Bungalow is my favorite amongst the bungalows on the estate as it has a stunning location on the edge of the Glenburn, with a great view of the Kanchenjunga.

What can other destinations learn from that place?

The Glenburn experience is a study in how simplicity and elegance go hand in hand. A simple walk in the river bank on a chilly moonlit night, followed by a bonfire and candle-lit dinner can be so elegant and relaxing. Places like these teach us to be at peace with ourselves because happiness in this day and age is an elusive concept. Nobody can make you happy, besides you yourself. It is also an engineering marvel, with such a luxurious place with all modern amenities built from structures dating back to 1859, without sacrificing any of its authenticity.

Any interesting episode of your holiday over there which you can share with our readers?

We were at the campsite by the river for a day trip, and I was taking a dip in the Rangeet river, when we suddenly heard a commotion. Our fellow travelers, an elderly French couple were trying very hard to resuscitate a fish by blowing air into its mouth. They had just caught the fish and were repenting and feeling guilty about its genuine state of helplessness. Ultimately their efforts bore fruit and once the fish started moving in a bucket of water, they were overjoyed to throw it back into the hilly River. I felt that it was a fitting tribute to the serene surroundings which very quickly absorbs you into its own clan, leaving all your urban baggage behind.

What kind of a traveler are you – planning well or more impulsive?

I am quite an impulsive traveler. Sometimes, when the pace of urban life gets too hectic, and suddenly a Friday or a Monday meeting gets called off at the eleventh hour, I know it’s my time to pack my bags and set my spirits free.

Lastly, what tops your mind when you travel – sightseeing, food, shopping or...

For me, it will have to be sightseeing. However, I am not one for the typical tourist spots. Besides, the solitude of nature which is my all-time favorite, I also love history and hence museums are a huge draw. I want an immersive experience steeped in local cuisine, music and customs wherever I go. Unless you experience a place through the eyes of a local, you will never feel its real spirit. There are various layers to a particular place. Most people confine their journey to the outermost touristy layer. I, for one, believe in touching the soul which can only happen through your heart and not merely through your eyes.